HVAC Technical Academy
Sanford, Florida
July–August 2026 Session

Guys, my name is Darwin Pierre Louis, and I’m here today at HVAC Academy. So, basically, I’m going over the recovery process. So, the whole purpose of the whole recovery process is to take the refrigerant out the condenser and put it in the recovery machine, and it goes towards the tank. So, basically, the first step to do this, you want to get your hoses hooked up. Obviously, you’re going to want your refrigeration hose hooked up to the in port. The in port will be located down here cuz we’re

taking refrigerant from condenser and putting in the recovery machine. So, this is going to be the in port. And then, right here we have our out port where the refrigerant is coming out the recovery machine and going inside of the tank. To our recovery tank. Remember, our recovery tank will always be a gray body with a yellow with a yellow top. So, and make sure your all your hoses are open. And then, most importantly, you want to come over here to your manifold, and then you want to open up your

your high side and your low side and make sure there’s, you know, all the pressure’s going through it. And then, most importantly, you want to open up your refrigerant side because without that being open, there’s no refrigerant flowing through your hoses. So, basically, yeah, that’s everything that comes into a recovery process. Once again, thank you guys for watching. Catch you guys soon.

HVAC Technical Academy
Sanford, Florida
July–August 2026 Session

Hi, my name is Dave. I’m with HVAC Technical Academy. Today we have a call for a condenser fan motor not operating. This is where the condenser fan motor is located in the top of the outdoor condenser unit. It’s a very important part of an AC system because it moves the air through the condensing coil up out of the outdoor unit. Which is necessary for our refrigerant to condense in the coils. To take it out, we unscrew the bolts. We flip it over and it looks something like this.

If it’s not working, we check our Y signal coming from our thermostat, which goes through the air handler, comes out to the outdoor unit and enters the contactor. So we would check the contactor. Then we would check the capacitor. If both those are good, then we would check the fan itself. That’s a quick test using your multimeter. Test the three wires, common, run, and start. This is run to start. It’s our highest reading. We would do the same thing with the other wires, and those would add up to

equal the ohms reading for the run to start, and we would know the fan itself is good. Thank you for your time today, and take care.

HVAC Technical Academy
Sanford, Florida
July–August 2026 Session

Hey, my name is Frank. I’m here at the HVAC Technical Academy. My part today to talk about would be the dual run capacitor. So, the capacitor is a very important role and a very important part in your condenser unit which energizes your condenser fan motor and energizes your compressor. So, for example, this capacitor here is a 355 microfarads. So 35 will go to your compressor, five would go to your fan. The proper way to check these will put your settings on your meter here to microfarads and then you can check it.

But also when you have a bad capacitor, it usually bulges out, gives you a problem or your condenser fan motor won’t turn on or your compressor won’t turn on. But we encourage you to look at more videos. HVAC technical academy is a very great great place. Thank you for visiting.

HVAC Technical Academy
Sanford, Florida
July–August 2026 Session

Hi everybody, my name is Jake with HVAC Technical Academy and today I’ll be talking to you about filter dryers. Filter dryers are usually installed on the liquid line side of your refrigerant of your AC system in the hermetically sealed refrigerant system. There’s four kinds. There’s your liquid line one. There’s a suction line one, which typically only comes into play during a cleanup of a compressor burnout. There’s a biflow one, which you’ll find on heat pump systems. And then there’s a fourth

one that is essentially all of that, but with replaceable internals, which means that you don’t have to cut the lines in order to get them off. The one that I hold here is a BFlow one that you would find on a heat pump. And the entire idea and the entire reason these exists is because these prevent Murphy’s law. Effectively, their entire role is to filter out non-condensables, moisture, and acid out of the refrigerant to prevent the compressor from burning out and breaking itself. The way that they typically work is

inside there’s something called dissectant material and a film screen. The film screen is smaller than 500 microns with the entire idea being to catch solid particullet while the dissectant material catches moisture and acid that could form or be within the hermetically sealed refrigerant system. Typically, you will find them installed like right here on the fil on the liquid line side of your HVAC system. Anytime you open the system, you have to replace these and put in a new one in order to

ensure and prolong the safety of your machine as preventative maintenance. The reason that these go bad is because it with time, if there’s material getting inside of the hermetically sealed system, these will catch it. But over time, it builds up, resulting in solid particulate catching into the filter, restricting your refrigerant flow. or if there’s too much moisture and acid within your hermetically sealed systems, the dissected material will wear out and stop catching moisture and

acid, allowing it to pass into the compressor. If it passes into the compressor, it could potentially cause damage and break the machine. Thank you very much and have a good rest of your day.

HVAC Technical Academy
Sanford, Florida
July–August 2026 Session

Hello. How’s it going? My name is Mauricio Kimbro. I’m here with HVAC Technical Academy and today I’ll be discussing what is a contactor. So today, as you can see, this is our contacttor in here. It is wired to our power and it is hooked up with our power cord and our common. One thing that I would like to tell you guys about a contactor, it is pretty much our energizer. It transfers the voltage from a thermostat to our compressor. One way we could test a conttor, we actually have two of them

right here, a single a single pull and a double pull. We could test our contacttor so we’re not so we know that it’s not going bad with ohms. If you hear a beep, it’s good. When you don’t hear a beep, it could be bad. But then again, we’re testing on a high voltage, which is not energized. As you can hear that clicking noise. You would normally hear that when it’s going bad. Another thing that I would like to discuss with you guys is the operation of it. Like I said, it

goes through it. It connects our thermostat to our compressor, which if not energized can cause your compressor to go bad. A couple things that can cause your connector contacttor to go out. could be rust or erosion. Another thing could be rodents getting in, chewing it up. As you can see, this one’s kind of a little damaged itself. Another thing is well, most likely highly common is weather condition. Hopefully you guys love this video.

HVAC Technical Academy
Sanford, Florida
July–August 2026 Session

Hi, my name is Sanjay. I’m from HVAC Technical Academy. I’m going to show you today I’m going to talk about the heat strip today. Where’s the heat strip? First of all, heat strip is always in air handler. Why the heat strip is go bad? It’s might be loose wire or burning wire and bad bad cap bad thermostat and contact the board and how we going to change this heater strip and how we going to check it. First we’re going to check there’s a power on it so we can

clamp it. So it means if it’s beeping that means it’s power on it. And then we’re going to check the continuity on the heat strip. So we’re going to put our meters and check all the continuity is there. So that if it’s beeping that means it’s there. If it’s not beeping so heat strip is not good. So first what we going to do before we change the new heat strip we’re going to take a pictures for all the wires where is this connected and we’re going to disconnect the

screws and take all heater strip out. Now, we’re going to change the new heater strip. But before we change the new heat heater strip, we make sure that breaker is off so there’s no power, right? And then we’re going to take the new heat strip and we’re going to change it. Going to make sure we’re going to connect all the wire as were before. And all the screw should be mounted. That’s how we change it. And thanks for watching my video. Have a nice day.