November 2025 Archives - HVACTA https://hvacta.com/category/attendee-training-video/novermber-2025/ Heating Ventilation Air Condition Technical Academy Fri, 12 Dec 2025 20:23:10 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.9.1 179589442 Adam Bush – HVAC Training Video | Sanford Workshop Nov 2025 https://hvacta.com/2025-sep-adam-bush/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=2025-sep-adam-bush Tue, 09 Dec 2025 17:15:54 +0000 https://hvacta.com/?p=245168 Adam from HVAC Technical Academy walks through the HVAC vacuum pump process, pulling a system down to 500 microns and removing air and non-condensables.

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Adam Bush video - Vacuum Pump Process

Adam Bush video transcript - Vacuum Pump Process (Training video Transcript)

Hi, my name is Adam. I’m here with HVAC Technical Academy. I’m here to explain the vacuum pump process.

First thing you want to do is hook up your low side and high side lines with your ball valves off, obviously, and then connect your vacuum hose to your vacuum pump. You turn the vacuum pump on, then you open up your manifold and your ball valves, and you open up the vacuum. Then you wait for the pressure in here to read 500 microns or below. Until then, you just wait.

It can take 10 minutes, it can take up to two hours from what I’ve heard. Once you reach the 500 point, 500 or below, you close everything up. Definitely close your ball valves before you take the hoses off the high side. Then you turn your machine off and you’re good to go.

Another thing about the machine: you need to open up this ballast here, otherwise it won’t do its job properly. That expels all the non-condensables that you don’t want, which is what you’re trying to do — pull out the refrigerant and get rid of all the non-condensables.

Thank you for watching.

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Brayden Adams– HVAC Training Video | Sanford Workshop Sept 2025 https://hvacta.com/2025-nov-brayden-adams/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=2025-nov-brayden-adams Tue, 09 Dec 2025 17:13:20 +0000 https://hvacta.com/?p=245171 Brayden from HVAC Technical Academy explains how condenser fan motors work, how to spot failures, test bearings and capacitors, and replace a bad motor.

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Brayden Adams video - Vacuum Pump Process

Brayden Adams video transcript - Condenser Fan Motors (Training video Transcript)

Hello everybody. My name is Brayden, and I am at the HVAC Technical Academy in Sanford, Florida, and today I’m going to be telling you everything about condenser fan motors.

What a condenser fan motor does is pull air through the condenser coils to remove heat from your refrigerant. Ways to tell if it goes bad are: you’ll have system shutdowns, compressor overheating that can ultimately lead to compressor damage, and warmer air coming out of the vents.

Some ways to test: you can test with your capacitor, from your four-prong to your two-prong, and make sure you know what your minimum and maximum range is. Another good way to test is you want to flip this over after you remove all your screws, then you want to spin this and check for seized bearings. You’ll feel any resistance and you’ll hear it if you have seized bearings.

So let’s say it’s bad and now you want to replace it. You’ve got to remove your set screw, take off the fan blade, make sure your wires are disconnected, and flip this back over. Then you want to remove these four screws right here. That’s how you take it off. Then you put your new one back on, connect your wires, get everything back to how it was, and that’s about it.

Most common things that will go bad are age, wear, capacitor, and bearings.

Thanks for watching my video. I’m Brayden at HVAC Technical Academy, and have a good day.

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Deon Duncan – HVAC Training Video | Sanford Workshop Sept 2025 https://hvacta.com/2025-nov-deon-duncan/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=2025-nov-deon-duncan Tue, 09 Dec 2025 17:10:49 +0000 https://hvacta.com/?p=245174 Deon from HVAC Technical Academy explains what bi-flow filter driers do, where they’re installed, and when techs should replace them in heat pump systems.

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Deon Duncan video - Filter Driers

Deon Duncan video transcript - Filter Dyiers (Training video Transcript)

Hi guys, today I am going to be talking about filter driers. First of all, my name is Deon from HVAC Technical Academy. I will tell you guys about filter driers and where they are located.

Right here is a bi-flow filter drier. Right here is my condenser. In a condenser you have a reversing valve. As you can see right here, this is my liquid line and I have a bi-flow filter drier. Now I’m going to explain why I have a bi-flow filter drier on the liquid line to my condenser.

Inside the condenser you will have a reversing valve. The reversing valve reverses the refrigerant flow of the system. So, in order to reverse the refrigerant flow on your liquid line, you would have to have a bi-flow filter drier.

The bi-flow filter drier can be thought of like a filter in a car, or a filter in your air handler, or any kind of filter. The filter drier catches non-condensables and any condensables that are left over from the system or from the vacuum process. That’s really about it for filter driers. They just catch non-condensables that are left over from the system.

They can usually be located on your liquid line to your condenser, and with a bi-flow drier it will work in both directions because of the reversing valve. The reversing valve reverses the flow, so you have to have the bi-flow filter drier connected to your liquid line.

To get these on, you can braze them on. You can braze the filter drier onto the liquid line on both ends. Make sure it’s brazed on properly.

When do you actually remove the filter drier? You remove it when you have a leak or a major component removed. So if you have a compressor burnout, or your compressor or another major component needs to be replaced, that is when you replace your filter drier, or when there’s a temperature difference.

That’s really it about filter driers. I hope you enjoyed watching. My name is Deon from HVAC Technical Academy and I hope to see you again.

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Gabriel Murcia – HVAC Training Video | Sanford Workshop Sept 2025 https://hvacta.com/2025-nov-gabriel-murcia/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=2025-nov-gabriel-murcia Tue, 09 Dec 2025 17:07:54 +0000 https://hvacta.com/?p=245177 Gabriel from HVAC Technical Academy explains the refrigerant recovery process, equipment setup, and safety steps techs need to follow before servicing a system.

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Gabriel Murcia video - Recovery Process

Gabriel Murcia video transcript - Recovery Process (Training video Transcript)

Hey everybody, my name is Gabriel from HVAC Technical Academy right here in Sanford. Today we’re going to be talking about the recovery process, what it means, and we’re also going to be diving into some EPA. We’re going to go ahead and recover this system for Mrs. Smith.

Now, whenever we recover a system, we want to make sure that the system is off. And also, a disclaimer — we’re not going to be doing the actual process because we don’t have this system hooked up right now, but we’re going to be going through the process for educational purposes.

Right here, I have all my equipment already laid out. We have a Fieldpiece recovery machine. We have our recovery tank. We have our scale. We have our Fieldpiece manifold gauge set. And of course, we have our system right here. Before we do anything, we want to make sure that the system is off.

For our recovery tank, you never want to go above 80%, because you want to make sure that you have 20% or less room left in this tank.

Right now, I want to talk about the hoses that we have connected here. On my manifold gauge set, we want to put our suction side, which is the blue side right here, on our suction valve. Make sure that’s tight. We also want to make sure we get our discharge hose on the discharge line, which is right there. Make sure that’s tight. Right here, I have my service wrench ready to open up the discharge side. We want to make sure that’s open. We’re going to do the same process over here on our suction side, but we haven’t gotten there yet.

First thing, you want to make sure your gauges are on. Make sure everything is tight, all your hoses are on tight. I have my refrigerant hose line connected to the “in” on the recovery machine, and on the “out” side we have an external hose connected to our recovery tank.

Just to show how this process works, we’re going to be opening up the system through both our discharge line and our suction line. Once that’s open, it’s going to flow refrigerant from these two lines into our manifold. We’re going to make sure that we open up both our discharge and suction lines, make sure that we have our refrigerant line open, and then that’s going to open over here, flow through the recovery machine, go in, then go out into this external tank.

Before you do anything, you always want to make sure that the recovery tank is filled with the type of refrigerant that you have in the system. If we look over here, we have R410A. We never want to mix refrigerants. This tank is R410A. We want to make sure we see the tare weight on the tank, and this one says 17.6. So, 17.6 — we’re going to put this on our scale. This one comes with a Bluetooth scale, so we’ll set it over here. Always take a picture before you begin the process, because you want to make sure you know how much you have in this tank.

You want to make sure that all your lines are open, everything is open. Before you do anything, you want to make sure that you purge your hoses. Right here, we’re going to purge our hoses. It’s going to be a quick 4 seconds — you’re going to hear a hissing sound. That’s good. We do this because we don’t want any air going into this tank. We want to make sure everything is clean, because when we hook up the gauges and the hoses, we have air in there, which is a non-condensable. We don’t want that in our tanks.

Then we can go ahead and turn on our machine, and it’s going to begin recovering the refrigerant from the system, through the recovery machine, and into the tank.

I just want to bring awareness that this tank, depending on the ambient temperature outside — right now it’s kind of cold — but once you start feeling that this tank is getting hot, you want to ask Mrs. Smith, “Hey, I’m going to need to use your hose to cool down my tank.” We want to cool down this tank because when it gets hot, it actually slows down the recovery process. When we add cold water to the tank, it speeds the recovery process.

Right here, we want to make sure that our pressures on both sides — right now it shows zero on our low side and zero on our high side. That’s telling us that the process is done. You want to make sure that it goes to zero psig on our recovery machine. Then we can go ahead and close off everything, and then we’ll click self-purge on the unit to make sure that we get all the refrigerant that’s trapped in these lines.

Then you want to weigh the refrigerant that you recovered and take a picture of that. Once you’re done, make sure that you close off your hoses. Make sure that you close off your service line and your discharge line.

And there you go — you’ve recovered the machine. Thank you, guys.

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Gerrard Campbell – HVAC Training Video | Sanford Workshop Sept 2025 https://hvacta.com/2025-nov-gerrard-campbell/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=2025-nov-gerrard-campbell Tue, 09 Dec 2025 17:06:39 +0000 https://hvacta.com/?p=245180 Gerrard from HVAC Technical Academy explains what HVAC capacitors do, how they fail, and simple steps to test and replace a bad capacitor.

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Gerrard Campbell video - Capacitor

Gerrard Campbell video transcript - Capacitor (Training Transcript)

Good afternoon. I’m Gerrard with HVAC Technical Academy. Today I’m going to be talking about a capacitor — how they go bad, how to know if they’re bad, and the purpose of a capacitor. The purpose of a capacitor is that all electronic motors need three legs of power, so this serves as the third leg of power. You have different types of capacitors. You have run capacitors, start capacitors, and dual run capacitors.

To test these, every capacitor has its own rating. This capacitor has a 7.5 rating with a give or take of 5 percent. You’ll come over to your multimeter, put it on microfarads, and touch the two prongs. Sometimes I get a rating of 5.88. So with a give or take of 5 percent, this is a bad capacitor. It cannot be repaired because it’s hermetically sealed, so you’re going to toss this out and get a new one.

A capacitor is not a hard start. This is a hard start. If you have your house set to 75 but it’s only reaching 80, that could be an indicator that you have a bad capacitor. It’s like a flashlight — when your batteries get low, the flashlight dims. Same idea.

So, how do they go bad? A capacitor goes bad over time, from age, electricity problems, things like that. Again, I’m Gerrard with HVAC Technical Academy. Have a nice day.

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Joshua Teel –  HVAC Training Video | Sanford Workshop Sept 2025 https://hvacta.com/2025-nov-joshua-teel/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=2025-nov-joshua-teel Tue, 09 Dec 2025 17:05:56 +0000 https://hvacta.com/?p=245183 Joshua from HVAC Technical Academy demonstrates how to perform a proper pump down and safely isolate refrigerant in the condenser.

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Joshua Teel video - Pump Down

Joshua Teel video transcript - Pump down (Training Transcript)

Speaker: Joshua Teel

Hi, I’m Joshua. I’m a student at HVAC Technical Academy, and I’m going to show you how to do a pump down. The purpose of doing a pump down is to isolate the refrigerant into the condenser. So, if we’re doing any work on our evaporator, like a cooling clean on the evaporator coils, or if we’re trying to replace our TXV, then to successfully do a pump down, we have to connect our gauges — our high side and our low side.

After we connect our gauges, we use this tool to close the liquid line first. After we close it — and it has to be lefty loosey, left tight — and we’re going on it, we have to go fast. This will close the liquid line valve side. After that, the pressure will start dropping on our low side gauge, and we have to make sure it doesn’t pass or reach zero psig.

So immediately after we close the liquid line, we then have to close the valve on our vapor line. If the pressure doesn’t hit zero psig, you will successfully seal and lock the refrigerant inside the condenser. If you fail to do that and it does reach zero psi, it will cause the refrigerant to go into an air hammer, and it won’t want to be accessed or pulled out.

I’m Joshua, and I’m from HVAC Technical Academy.

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Richard Russell –  HVAC Training Video | Sanford Workshop Sept 2025 https://hvacta.com/2025-nov-richard-russell/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=2025-nov-richard-russell Tue, 09 Dec 2025 17:00:19 +0000 https://hvacta.com/?p=245186 The post Richard Russell –  HVAC Training Video | Sanford Workshop Sept 2025 appeared first on HVACTA.

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Richard Russell video - Heat Strips

Richard Russell video transcript - Heat Strips (Training Transcript)

Speaker: Richard Russell

All right. Hello. My name is Richard Russell from HVAC Technical Academy, and I’m going to be talking to you about heat strips. Heat strips are these coils right here that usually run on 30 amps, depending on your heat pump. They create heat through resistance. Their main job is to create backup heat for the heat pump when it is in defrost mode or when it can’t create enough heat from the outside. The way you’re going to check if the heat strips are good is for continuity.

So, you’re going to use this voltmeter here and check for continuity right here. When you hear the beeping, that means it has continuity. Another thing to note is that in straight cool systems, heat strips are the only primary source of heat. Also, if you don’t use this for a while, it could create dust. So if you turn it on and it smells like something’s burning, that could be your reason. So, yeah, that’s all I have today. Thank you.

 

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Tony Rogers –  HVAC Training Video | Sanford Workshop Sept 2025 https://hvacta.com/2025-nov-tony-rogers/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=2025-nov-tony-rogers Tue, 09 Dec 2025 16:50:57 +0000 https://hvacta.com/?p=245189 This is Tony Rogers with HVAC Technical Academy, and I’m explaining the contactor, the types you’ll see, and how it operates inside a cooling system.

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Tony Rogers at HVAC Technical Academy

Tony Rogers video - The Contactor

Tony Rogers video transcript - Contactor (Training Transcript)

Speaker: Tony Rogers

Hello there. I’m Tony Rogers with HVAC Technical Academy. You know, I got a call from Miss Smith. She said she was having a hearing a noise problem. I immediately assumed it could possibly be the contactor, and that’s what we’re going to be talking about today: the contactors. This is where the contactor is, and we actually have three types of contactors. We got the single, double, and triple. The triple is basically for industrial, you know, it has the power, and it has what they call circuits, fuses, and everything, and it tells it. The single-pole is for basic comfort cooling in homes. The double pole is for some homes or commercial, and the three-phase, the three pole, is definitely for industrial.

So, how it works is you put your power load on lines one and two, it goes through the system loads, and it generates power and turns it into 24 volts. That’s why you have these down here, 24, and they come off there, and they generate. It’s just like a light switch, basically. You know, when the power is on, that means it’s supplying power. When it’s out, there’s no power running through it. And it goes bad easily. You know, it could be over time, it could be weather, it could be a lightning strike, anything. Or it could be something else causing it to pull power from it and make it go bad.

So that’s basically, I think, about it. I’m Tony Rogers. Thank you for checking me out and checking out my video on Second Chance Technical University or Academy. I’ll see you soon.

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