Speaker: Cameron Dawes

Hi there. I’m Cameron Dawes at the HVAC Technical Academy. Today I will be showing you the refrigerant recovery process. For this process, you need a manifold gauge set, a recovery system, a recovery cylinder, and a scale.

To start this system, you will unplug your high side from your manifold gauge set and plug it up to the liquid side. You’re going to unplug your low side and plug it up to the suction side.

Next, after you plug those up, you’re going to plug your refrigerant hose to the inlet. This is the end. This is the out. You’re going to plug your refrigeration hose into the inlet. And you’re going to have another hose, extra hose. You’re going to plug it into the recovery the recovery cylinder and the outlet of the recovery system.

Okay. Before you start any of this, you have to you have a scale. You have to get your tear width. Turn your scale on. Once your scale turns on [Music]

Okay. So, the tear weight is 20.2. Okay. That’s the tear weight. That’s how much this cylinder is, not how much it holds. You can put as much as probably about 23 inside of it. You’re going to tear this. You’re going to tear this and put this at zero so you can have that regular.

Next, you’re going to open your ball valves on this. You’re going to open up your high and low side until it’s all the way open, not fully open. Then you’re going to open your refrigerant, your refrigerant knob. Next, you’re going to open your ball valve right here on the inlet. You’re going to purge all air out, all air, all noncondensables. Usually, it’s going to make a noise for about two, three seconds, and then the noise will decrease.

Next, you’re going to come over here and you’re going to purge this. Usually, it would be a ball valve, but this hole doesn’t have a ball valve, so you’re just going to purge it regular. Probably about a couple seconds and close it back up.

Next, you’re going to open up the cylinder. And after you open up the cylinder, you’re going to come here. You’re going to start and switch it to recovery. And then that’s it.

Speaker: Edward Rodriguez

Hey guys, welcome back to HVAC Tech Academy. I’m Ed and today I’ll be showing you some low voltage wiring.

So, we’re going to start over here at our air handler. In this case, you can see this would be our low voltage wiring. You see this low voltage wiring also connects to the back of our thermostat back here as well.

So now our thermostat, our low voltage wiring is always going to be 188 proportions of the AWG. The eight wires being of 18 AWG. Behind your thermostat here is where you’ll also see your connections. C for your common, R for your 24 volts, G for your blower motor, Y for your outdoor contactor, W for your heat, and O for your reversing valve.

Behind the thermostat as well is where you can see that the thermostat makes these connections. If everything is working properly, the thermostat should make these connections and these connections can always be tested either behind the thermostat for continuity or you can always check your voltage here.

In this instance, we have a control. You would use your multimeter volt AC and we can check to see where we have voltage in each and every point from R to common, R to O, R to G to Y to W, so on and so forth.

All right. Well, that was low voltage wiring. Again, my name is Ed. See you guys next time.

Speaker: James Samuels

Good afternoon. This is James Samuels and I am here at HVAC Technical Academy and I am doing a demonstration on the heat strip and how it operates in a straight pool system. It is the primary source of your heat and in the heat pump it would be your secondary source of heat. and it would be your emergency.

So now I will show you how to get the continuity. I got to test it. We switch our gauge over here, our compact meter to microfarads MFD. There we have somewhat of a reading. There we have more of a reading. And now since we have that, I got to show you how to take it out of here. And once you need to replace it.

So now I’m going to disconnect these wires here so you can get right to your heat strip. take it out for you and show how we replace that in case anything goes wrong with it. We’ll switch it out and get you a new one, bring it right back to you so you can have what you need. And we’ll just insert that back in there as fast as possible. And then we will reconnect these wires. And then there you are. You’re all set. Have a good one.

Speaker: Jantz Lee

I’m J. I’m here at the HVAC Institute. I’m showing you the condenser fan motor. This is a condenser fan motor. It’s a motor that runs the fan out and your outdoor condenser unit. It gets rid of heat from your condenser coils that have the refrigerant in it. The refrigerant flows through your inside of your house and um absorbs heat from inside your house. and we move it to the outside and we get rid of it. That’s how we cool your house down.

So, this comes out. There’s screws that go around the top of here. You pull this out. The the fan is attached here. It’s got three wires and they go they go through and they come out. They come out here. Two of them go to your capacitor. One of them goes to your contactor. And it’s pretty easy to take out. You take these screws out. You get this out. This goes Well, first your wires. The wires go through here like this. Put your wires through here. Get the wires. [Music] Like that.

And it’s got these studs on it. They go go here. And then I got the hardware. I got the hardware right here. I need a screw on like that. There we go. There we go. Got two more. There we go.

So, usually when you take the motor out, you take the the blades off. And I had to use this blade pulling tool and it’s pretty difficult. And um I did that earlier. I put it back on for this video. So this goes on here. [Music] The wires run through your hole. that. I got that back on. I can put my screws back in. I can connect my two wires to my capacitor and other one to the contactctor. And that’s it. Thank you for watching my video.

Speaker: Jason Manning

Hi, I’m Jason from HVAC Technical Academy. Today we’re talking about a filter dryer and how to replace it, when to replace it. First, you got to figure out when it’s bad. Sometimes it’s obvious a lawn mower runs over it, something. If you if you ch have to change out a compressor, you have to change out that filter dryer. The filter dryer, it filters dirt, moisture, so it does not damage the compressor.

You can, one way to test if a filter dryer is clogged is to get your manifold out and look at your subcool and super heat. If that temperature is a 3° difference, that means this filter dryer is clogged. Something’s going on. Let’s take that off. Okay, we got our acetylene and our oxygen. All right. We got it off. Now we got our new one. We’re going to put it back on. Let’s put that there. [Music] [Music] You got to get that on first. Okay, I got to heat up a little more. [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Applause] That’s it. Turn off our tanks. That’s it. I’m Jason. Thanks for joining us. You have a good day.

Speaker: Junior Polycape

Hello, my name is Junior and I’m here with HVAC Technical Academy and I’m going to be showing you on how a vacuum pump operates.

So, here we have one of the main component that we will need to pull the vacuum which is this vacuum pump itself. And then we have our gauges set right here which will be used as hoses to go inside of the liquid line and vapor side of the condenser.

Now, we pull a vacuum on a condenser system. And the reason why is to get any debris, any kind of noncondensible out of the system before we add refrigerant into it.

And now, how you would need to do it would be right here. We’ll press this button. All of my things already set over here. So, all I will need to do is turn it on, open up my gear, Now, as you can hear, it kind of stopped.

Now, here we do have a gas valid. And the gas valid is just to basically remove any moisture that’s within stuck the condenser. So, what we would need to do is pull it up a little bit. Not too much. You don’t want you don’t want to get it out too much cuz it might damage the vacuum itself.

All right. Now, before pulling it, you will want to make sure that all of your equipment is set up right and tight so that the vacuum can be pulled fully.

Now, if you come over here, it shows on how much is being pulled. Now, through EPA regulation, you want it to be 500 microns or less.

Now, these are the holes where the vacuum is being pulled going to the little cylinder right here and being pulled out of the system out of this big vacuum hose into the vacuum pump and out into the air.

Now, right here, we do have a little oil thermometer right here. And this is just to show you how much oil is within your system. And this oil is used to basically and how could I say that for you guys not let any of the components within the vacuum wear and tear and over time it will go down. So you do need to check it every single time that you are pulling a vacuum.

And this is Junior and I just showed you on how to pull a vacuum.

Speaker: Kevin Hill

Hey guys, what’s going on? This is Kevin from HVAC Technical Academy and I’ll be here today to talk to you guys about duck board, cutting duck work. So we’re going to be making a Plymouth for measurements that were given to me were 10 by 12. So let me show you guys how to get ready to do that.

All right, so first of all, you want to subtract three from 10 and three from 12. That’ll give you a total dimension of seven and nine. Okay.

All right. So, my first cut will be uh my 7 in mark to where 3/4 to your first cut. That way, you can have a little bit of extra lip to form back to actually make your corner cut like so. So, I will grab my Vcut um which is a red. And you want to make sure your sleds are facing forward, guys. All right. So, I’m going to measure my three and a half, 3/4, and my first cut, remember, is seven. So, that’s about three right there. You want to make sure you’re flush all the way through. And you want to travel all the way through, guys. Like so. Okay.

Remove any of this fiberglass, which is called fiberglass. And going to give you a good fold. You will feel the tension inside the fiberglass to let you know. All right, that should be good enough.

All right. Now, second cut. Nine inches, guys. So, you want to start start from the edge point like so. That’s about nine say. So, right about nine. All right. Second cut. Remember, fast forward. There you go. So far so good, huh? Again, it’s going to feel a little tension there, but that’s the whole purpose of folding it back. That way you can release some of that.

You guys remember the next cut? Remember seven and a quarter the first time, but we’re not doing seven and a quarter, just seven. So you start from your the edge of the last cut. We’re at seven. Good to go. But this time want to use the blue. This is the black. Oh, sorry. Damn. We got to do it over. All right. Yeah. I want to go with the red. Sorry. Yeah. Seven.

1. Now we want to go nine. Now we want to go line add it up. Now we’re going with the butt cut. Reason for the butt cut so you can have a little lip to fold over. It’s gonna be a little tough, but cut all this excess off right here because we don’t need any of that. This is no longer needed. And now what we want to do, we want to like so fillet the rest of this excess fiberglass off. If you guys ever filleted a fish, you would understand what I’m saying when I say fillet.

So far so good. Just want to get just take all the rest of this off, guys. Now, from there, it’s going to start forming our plenum box. Don’t forget, stretch it out again. It’s not going to  form the way you want to that perfect dimension that you guys are really looking for. Okay. So, we should be fully squared like so.

Now, more than likely you’re going to have a helper outside in the field with you. But if you but if you don’t, get you a little piece. This right here is called working by yourself. Just rip your little piece off like so.

All right. Well, you want to get this on as easily as possible. It’s way easier than that, but guys get a somewhat of an idea what’s going on. It’s right here. See these ridges in there? This is what you want to see after you assemble this product. And this is how you make a 10 by 12 plenum, but of course it have a cap on it. And this is Kevin Hill from HVAC Technical Academy. Hope you guys enjoyed this video.